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AATCC

AATCC is the world’s leading not-for-profit association serving textile professionals since 1921. AATCC is headquartered in Research Triangle Park, N.C., USA, providing test method development, quality control materials, and professional networking for thousands of members in 60 countries throughout the world.
These goals are achieved through the activities of our three interest groups - Chemical Applications, Concept 2 Consumer®, and Materials - by our Committee and Section activities, and through our award-winning magazine and peer-reviewed journal,AATCC Review.

ASTM International

Textile Standards ASTM International is one of the largest voluntary standards development organizations in the world-a trusted source for technical standards for materials, products, systems, and services. Known for their high technical quality and market relevancy, ASTM International standards have an important role in the information infrastructure that guides design, manufacturing and trade in the global economy. Committee D13 ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles was formed in 1914. D13 meets twice a year, in January and June, with approximately 100 members attending three days of technical meetings. The Committee has 535 members and currently has jurisdiction of 339 standards, published in the Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Volumes 7.01 and 7.02.

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Madras, India
A textile technologist, chemist to be more precise. Have taken up responsibilities with AATCC and ASTM International to provide technical and support services to members and member prospects. Involved in QA systems implementation for Textile producers. Work with some of the top rated technicians in the world. We are Rated very highly Globally. I share my knowledge and experience ( Episteme and Techne)with the industry. Conduct Training programs for AATCC and ASTM Intl. In addition design and deliver tailor made programs and deliver lectures. Love to drive in search of desolate and exotic locations, where the air is clean , water in pure and nature is still natural. Ironically I Love gadgets and gizmo's and experimenting with new hardware and software. Life is not perfect , but it is interesting. Imperfections make life worth living. A perfect system is no challenge to the body , mind and soul.

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Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Lack of Trust between the Manufacturer and the retailer ( Brand owner) in the textile Industry.

I ask all my colleagues who are part of this Group, some are members and most are non members. Members of this group are also from different parts of the textile Industry complex.

Why does the Retailer / Brand owner mistrust the manufacturer so much that a 3rd party independent lab needs to certify that the products manufactured is suitable for use?.
There are so many faults in the current method of sampling and testing and still several major retailer follow the same mistake

1. The biggest mistake is sampling - 1 sample from a population of any size 500 to 5,000,000 pcs passing the tests in a 3rd party lab is sufficient for the retailer.
1A. Even if the manufacturers offers to sample using scientific an proven methods like the Mil-HDBK-53-1A and the Std MIL-HDBK-737A which means additional samples are tested per population, such offers are  literally laughed at dumped into garbage by the retailer. They still want that piece of paper form a 3rd party lab.

2.In a manufacturers lab the number samples tested in a day may be 20 to 50 at best. Limiting the number Staining and Color change assessments to manageable levels.
In 3rd party labs which test in excess of 300 samples a day the number of Grey scale assessments are impossible to conduct .There are 3rd party labs  that conduct tests on 850 samples a day. Is it practically possible for this many samples to assessed for 4 or 5 Color fastness tests using the Grey scale ?

3. Some retailer accept to allow manufacturers to certify their own products, but after an audit by an independent body, and who constitutes this body ? The same 3rd party lab who will lose business if they accredit any manufacturers lab. Will vested interest no play a role here or not ?

4. The very fact that a Buyer does not trust their seller tells a lot about business relationships in textile business . In any business trust and confidence is the first parameter that gets the business started. In textiles trust and confidence is to be certified by a 3rd party.

Having been in this industry for over 17 years , I find this need for a outside entity, that plays such an important role in certifying a product based on unscientific sampling methods more humorous , than anything else.

Perhaps I am wrong, I would love to hear the comments of a Retailer a 3rd party lab on why a 3rd party lab is needed between the buyer and seller.

On another day I will write about certifications like Gots, Oekotex 100 etc.

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